congo

Here you go Hack

You need the MODS folder in woodland for woodland skins and in desert for desert skins and autumn for autumn skins and winter for winter skins. You will need the jsgme executable in all these folders as well. If you do this eliminate the shortcut on your desktop and do your activation from within the folders. Go to woodland and double click on the exe. or go to desert and double click the exe.

Here are a couple things to try out, give me some feedback. All are betas and not yet complete but they are useable.

Andy, Make a folder called whatever you like such as British Armored Vehicles and put the dds files you wish to use in this folder. You cannot install duplicate files so you will have to make multiple folders for different vehics. As an example make a folder called Spainiac Pack and install all the dds files from the Spainiac pack,now place these folders in a folder called mods(not your mods folder in SB you will need to create this folder) and place this in the woodland folder in your SB mods folder also place the JSGME executable file here also. double click on JSGME and you should see the names of the file folders you created. Highlight the name of what you would like to use and click on the arrow that points to install and see if this works for you. If this works make a shortcut for your desktop so you can activate the mods you wish to use without navigating to the woodlands folder each time you wish to install a skin.

There are some other typos as well if you want me to point them out. I just did it with the east/west thing because I thought it may confuse some with limited english. Im adjacent to Arlington Hall, just out from Ft. Meyer. Retired govt. Whats your line of work?

Why cant you make the generic mod enabler work. Ive never had problems with it.

No prob, just thought you would want to know about it. If you need a beta tester just pm me. Do you both live and work in Mogo county?

The task is to execute a "clear" tactical mission and re-establish the screen line (dotted arrows located at the western edge). Dont you mean eastern edge Great job on the lead in and I'm looking forward to this Sce.

Lipe. You will need to go back and rework some details after you get all your dirt applied to the Piz. The shovel,pick and ax handles would stand out even with a good layer of dirt and can use some shadowing to give them depth. Likewise for the road wheels and running gear. Its getting there though, Dont forget to apply dust and dirt to markings so they dont look brand new. What photo editing software are you using. Some filters can give a nice effect such as craqueline. Works good for dried cracked mud. You could also install the allen bolts that secure the fender skirts and the separations on the hinge bar. Are you doing this in 1024 or 2048. The 2048 will give you better flexibilty for the details. You can always take it back to 1024 upon completion. If you are applying the dirt as separate layers or multiple layers you can try shifting opacity and such to acheive various effects.

If your drive is large enough why not partion it and run both OS,s. You will need to enter bios and tell it what system to use on bootup. Or remove drive from old system and install in new computer, I assume you have windows on that drive. Just remember that some older drives have jumpers to tell it whether it is a master or slave. You may need to adapt the ide to sata if the board does not support ide. You can find adapters for less than $20.

Some more possibilities for the ISO container

The rudder is not attached to the tail section, It is attached to the vertical stabilizer at the hinge point. The rudder probably has a bellcrank at the bottom to control movement. As the rudder is deflected from side to side it in essence becomes an airfoil creating lift on one side or the other. The vertical stabilizer is attached to the tail section through hard points at the spars. Same is true for the horizontal stabilizer and the elevator. Horizontal is attached to the tail of fuselage and the elevator is attached to horizontal at hinge points.

Probably left over paint from WWII and Korea. Its so close to the OD that the US has used in the past but then again the different shades we have used covers the whole gamut.

I think its pretty obvious that component snapped off at the spars as they are not protruding. I would be willing to bet that it has at least two spars. If the rudder limiter malfunctioned or allowed a full rudder deflection at cruising speed It could most likley wrench the vertical and rudder from the airframe.

Nice skin for WWII scenarios. It was georgous when Scorp did it and its still that way.

Y9, Nice work on the Abrams and Brad. I look forward to seeing the final product. Keep em coming. Congo

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K, Are you Flemish or Waloon? Heres a quick Leo 1 based on my Dutch one. Hack if you want to do the markings have at it. In fact repost and I'll add some dirt and wear and tear. Maybe some more details.

He would only be drooling if it was a Finnish paint scheme and markings which he and I hope to accomplish in the next month or two. BTW Hack great work on the markings and I really like the skin on the Leo.

You misunderstood, I was refering to the weld that runs along the top edge of the right side not the hinge points. The weld is running just above the ax in your photo.

A bottle in front of me is better than a frontal lobotomy

Actually first message says there was a fault with the rudder control limiter. Most jets as the speed goes up the amount of rudder movement is limited so you cannot get full rudder deflection at 550 kts or whatever the cruising speed of the ac is. There was also a fault indicated with the airspeed indicator. I would think a full rudder deflection at cruising speed could be quite disasterous.