MAJ_Fubar Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Just a note: this guide has been added to the wiki! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grenny Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Thanks for the work to everybody involved! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashdivay Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 On 4/10/2016 at 6:47 AM, MAJ_Fubar said: Just a note: this guide has been added to the wiki! where ? i cant find it ? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gibsonm Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 I did a search for "skin" and found this: http://www.steelbeasts.com/sbwiki/index.php?title=SB_Vehicle_Skinning_Tutorial 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAJ_Fubar Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 6 hours ago, ashdivay said: where ? i cant find it ? Wiki main page under Miscellaneous Information? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashdivay Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 20 hours ago, Gibsonm said: I did a search for "skin" and found this: http://www.steelbeasts.com/sbwiki/index.php?title=SB_Vehicle_Skinning_Tutorial 18 hours ago, MAJ_Fubar said: Wiki main page under Miscellaneous Information? thanks now i see it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 On 4/3/2016 at 10:14 AM, JustSomeGuy said: 3. copy a skin of the vehicle you want to mod (.dds file) from the "<SB Pro Pe folder>\textures\desert" folder You want to begin with these skins instead. DTX1 is the most compressed and saving it again after editing just amplifies its shortcomings. Check out your pics of the closeup of the orange lines on right hull. The green is pixelating pretty bad. Saving it to DTX3 or 5 or a uncompressed format doesn't help either. On 4/4/2016 at 4:35 PM, MAJ_Fubar said: Note that for general vehicle skins DXT1 (no alpha) is adequate, DXT5 is typically for images such as rotor.dds and decals (ie, files that actually have an alpha channel). DTX1 can have an alpha channel also. How the alpha transitions from opaque to transparent plays a big part on which format to use. DTX1 (alpha) and 3 are best when there is a sharp transition. DXT5 is best for gradient transitions like smoke and semi-transparent things like your rotor example. You probably can get away with using DXT3 for decals. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashdivay Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 11 hours ago, Homer said: You want to begin with these skins instead. DTX1 is the most compressed and saving it again after editing just amplifies its shortcomings. Check out your pics of the closeup of the orange lines on right hull. The green is pixelating pretty bad. Saving it to DTX3 or 5 or a uncompressed format doesn't help either. DTX1 can have an alpha channel also. How the alpha transitions from opaque to transparent plays a big part on which format to use. DTX1 (alpha) and 3 are best when there is a sharp transition. DXT5 is best for gradient transitions like smoke and semi-transparent things like your rotor example. You probably can get away with using DXT3 for decals. This post just keeps getting better. Thanks 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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