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Range Estimation


Mogwa

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Yeah, basically it was: Using the mil scale in the binoculars, measure the height or width of the object. Then substitute in the mil relation formula: R=W over M, where R equals range in thousands of meters, m equals width in mils, and W equals width of the object in meters. W was a constant of I believe 3.5 for width and 7 for length.

I was going to do a wiki entry for GAS or degraded mode gunnery, as all the entries I read had things about "kentucky windage" and using multiple rounds to engage targets. I guessed this was because range estimation methods and standard leads in mils for sabot and heat were not really posted anywhere.

Anyway, Ssnake has addressed much of what I was going to write in the engaging targets section of the Leo 2a4 wiki entry so I probably wont duplicate his efforts in a separate entry.

Flash to bang method isn't addressed but thats ok. It may not always be practical in the turret of a Leo.

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Well, you need to know the dimensions of the reticule, of course. Didn't we cover this in the FAQ, and where the hell is the link to the FAQ anyway?

Well, you can check out page 219 of the German SB Pro Benutzerhandbuch.pdf in the Documents folder. It has a diagram with the dimensions of the NATO standard reticule in it.

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I regularly run the tank-range scenarios in revisionary modes or only with estimated ranges etc, and find tolerable scores are relatively easy to sustain even without all the gizmos...

Of course the Slsgr round is fairly hard to use at 2km, if you get unlucky in the Strv122, and I often find that I need to perform a BOT even if I'm fairly confident in the range - those PCs are very small way out there, and that round takes a loooonnng time to arrive.

An important thing with estimated range is while it may not be very precise*, it never get confused by a first return from foliage or a second return from backstop a long way behind a distant target, so with practice 'knowing' an approximate range from target size and appearance can help identify & reject poor solutions from the FCS.

*And may be next to impossible to obtain for a partially exposed target 'quadrant' (ie partial width and partial height), without reference to other 'nearby' objects at the target area.

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Funny you mention the role of estimating ranges in rejecting phony solutions...

I know two guys who I talked into buying SB Gold some time back as a change of pace from IL-2 Sturmovik, before PPE was out... I'm having the damnedest time getting them first to understand how to work the normal mode fire control, and second how to recognize obviously false ranges...

"Uh, it says he's twenty yards away, so is that why I missed?"

"......Yes...Why did you shoot then?"

"Because I have to shoot it after I laser it?"

"......Get out of the tank."

I won't even begin to tell you what its like when the FCS starts to take hits...

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Because you lose that ability to consider the FCS solution, I'm not really a big fan of "laze and blaze" on the M1. It is slightly easier as you can deliberately select first or last return prior to lasing, but I do like that 'beat' before firing that you get with lasing first and tracking for the dynamic lead solution, rather than tracking then lasing immediately before you fire.

I know this is a personal preference thing, and I don't find the floaty reticle in the M1 much of a hinderance (heck I'm happy to gun from the TC spot where you can't turn dynamic lead off without losing control of the gun ;) ). Many happy hours spent NOT calling artillery in SB Gold's 'Artillery' Tutorial :biggrin:

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Well at least in SB Gold...

If you are TC-Gunning with a live gunner, he will set the FCS to match your loaded rounds. To deactivate lead, release and immediately re-engage TC override. In this mode, essentially, it's like you're actually holding the palm switch.

If you are TC-Gunning because your gunner bit the big one, I think dynamic lead is always on. The work around is to set your battle sight range to 0000 and use it to fault out your FCS and thus remove the lead. Lead will return when you lase next.

Also, SB Gold here...

I kind of like the floating reticle in the M1 as it seems more forgiving to tracking errors than the Leopard2's. Or perhaps it has something to do with the way I have to hold the lead switch and maybe it's just not as comfortable for me? Either way, I use various methods. It seems that at longer ranges I prefer to use a Lase-Track-Lase-Blaze method. Range the target, track to be sure, lase to update, and fire.

With the targets closer, say 1500m or closer, I use the Lase-and-Blaze method. Honestly I don't try to hurry up the shot. I have a "One Two" count, sorta, theres maybe 1/2 to a 1 second pause after the lase to be sure I'm set and tracking, then fire. I can't recall ever actually switching the first/last return mode...Seems I always just adjust my lase point rather than flip switches. No problems with that method yet...

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