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Stick recommendation

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Thought I asked this before, but can't find the thread... Maybe it was at another site.

My old Saitek AV8R-01 is getting old and stiff, need a new stick that tracks well and smooth, any recommendations? The other stick purpose is DCS, so a twist rudder is also preferred, but smooth x, y tracking is the priority.

Thx in advance.

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I use a Saitek ST290 Pro most of the time. I have also used my Saitek X-52. Both have a twist rudder. (Which I have profiled to spin the range wheel in my T-72. Quite handy. :) )

The ST290 is a bit stiffer, but I have no problem whatsoever tracking targets at any range. I think it also centers more positively. The X-52 is really smooth. Almost too smooth for my liking. I find it's easy to over-correct with that stick. Also, there is the fact that with the X-52, you have to plug in the throttle as well. A plus if you like a HOTAS setup...but I prefer the keyboard/stick combo. Then again, you don't have to use the throttle. Then there's cost. I think I paid around $25-$30 for the ST290. The X-52 was substantially more when I got it.

So in summary, I like both of my Saiteks. But it sounds to me like you might prefer the X-52. Hope that helps.

P.S.

I also use my ST290 for DCS. (Black Shark) I really only used the X-52 for MS Flight Simulator. I had to in order to be able to fly a 747. Look at all those buttons! :biggrin:

747_cockpit.jpg

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For a non-HOTAS joystick, I think that the Thrustmaster T.16000M has a lot going for it, especially that hall sensor increased resolution for maximum precision. Unfortunately it only works on my notebook as intended, the many other USB devices on my main computer seem to induce a general (and intolerably high) signal error. I don't have the time to sort that shit, so the joystick gets only rarely used.

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I don't have the time to sort that shit, so the joystick gets only rarely used.

Sounds like the Gescahftsfuhrer needs an adjutant.

Are you hiring? :)

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No, I use the analoge Zeige- und Eingabegerät.

Besides, eSim is a lean organization, all teeth and nearly no tail. It's supposed to stay that way.

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I also use a Saitek X52 Pro. Being in the early stages of tank simming I´ve yet to fiddle around with programming all the knobs, switches and whatnot. As a complement I also have a Logitech G13 which is nice if one have a need to control more keys than can be fitted to the stick. I suspect that for me it will end up with stick plus G13, while the throttle stays sidelined. By default I find the vertical input from the stick to be a bit too agressive, but it´s easy to tune that to ones liking.

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I only use mine for flight sims now. A period of no cash and a broken stick converted me to mouse use on SB, and after a frustrating adjustment period, I've never looked back.

I think another side effect of it is sitting at the TC position is a lot more natural when it comes to looking around, FPS-style.

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I have Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog and my gunnery score has increased dramatically since then because its precission.

In Steel Beasts Pro Pe, only one device is recogniced as controller so if you connect one Joystick that has an indendent throttle or rudder, you can only use one. Makre sure that Windows has that very one as preferred device and first on its list.

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Thought I asked this before, but can't find the thread... Maybe it was at another site.

My old Saitek AV8R-01 is getting old and stiff, need a new stick that tracks well and smooth, any recommendations? The other stick purpose is DCS, so a twist rudder is also preferred, but smooth x, y tracking is the priority.

Thx in advance.

IMHO there are two separate issues when it comes to games controllers. One is the resolution of the axes for accurate shooting, the other is the number of buttons, hats, etc. on the device.

Personally, I find having to look down and peck at the keyboard a real pain, so I have a full CH Fighterstick, Prothrottle and Throttle Quadrant set up - which means I am 100% HOTAS all the time. But for many people this is unimportant. My Fighterstick is now more than 10 years old (fully reliable in all that time despite heavy flight sim use) and has developed a little play around the centre position. But not enough to make me think about replacing it. All those I know with CH equipment are more than happy with it.

Hope this is useful.

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I have Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog and my gunnery score has increased dramatically since then because its precission.

In Steel Beasts Pro Pe, only one device is recogniced as controller so if you connect one Joystick that has an indendent throttle or rudder, you can only use one. Makre sure that Windows has that very one as preferred device and first on its list.

An advantage of CH products is that multiple devices (stick, throttle, rudders etc) can be combined in software to present as a single, multi-axis and multi-button device to Windows. However, it is also possible to programme every single button/hat press to a single or multiple keyboard command - which saves worrying about all that Button No 11 stuff.

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Personally, I find having to look down and peck at the keyboard a real pain, so I have a full CH Fighterstick, Prothrottle and Throttle Quadrant set up - which means I am 100% HOTAS all the time.

Same.

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OK, a New Year a new setup.

I'm fed up with trying to adapt myself to suit my Saitek X52 Pro (and sacrifice a bunch of desk space for a throttle unit that I need to keep because the power goes via the throttle unit to the joystick).

I'm sure the Saitek is fine if you are right handed, but I'm not.

I have no need for some overly complex setup the lets me fly an aircraft (or whatever "HOTAS" is designed to do).

All I need is limited joystick use for when I'm not in the map view.

For the last 18months the Saitek has been connected but not used.

While a mouse has been fine to date I'm still lured by the option of a left handed joystick.

Ssnake has mentioned an issue getting the T.16000M to work with his desktop machine:

For a non-HOTAS joystick, I think that the Thrustmaster T.16000M has a lot going for it, especially that hall sensor increased resolution for maximum precision. Unfortunately it only works on my notebook as intended, the many other USB devices on my main computer seem to induce a general (and intolerably high) signal error. I don't have the time to sort that shit, so the joystick gets only rarely used.

Has anyone else encountered similar issues?

I'm happy to invest approx A$60 to find out (given I pi**ed away about A$200 on the Saitek).

BTW: Anyone want a "free"* Saitek X52 Pro hardly used in its original packaging?

* Free = you pay for the shipping.

Edited by Gibsonm

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I've had no problems with my Saitek ST290 Pro. It's simple (6 buttons), very inexpensive and can be easily configured for left hand use.

Never had a problem with my X52 either. But I definitely agree with:

I have no need for some overly complex setup the lets me fly an aircraft...

I tried making a profile for SB once...too tedious. After spending hours making one for MS FSX, no thanks.

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I've had no problems with my Saitek ST290 Pro.

Thanks, but I gather this is no longer current?

It certainly isn't listed on the Saitek web site as a current product.

The few listings I could see were for second hand ones on Amazon and this combined with the fact that the 3 page manual I could find doesn't actually tell me how to make it "left handed", suggests that sending it back if it doesn't work would be "problematic".

I'm already resigned to putting the one Saitek product out for the Council clean up, I don't really want to build on that pile.

Conversely the T.16000m is a current product and I'm currently confirming the seller's return policy so if it doesn't work I wont be out of pocket.

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Let us know what you end up going with G. I'm sure there's a few other lefties within the community that will be interested as well.

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Thanks, but I gather this is no longer current? It certainly isn't listed on the Saitek web site as a current product.

Well, that's just great. Sorry. I just browsed their website and they don't currently offer anything similar either. What a shame. It's a great stick.

Not that it matters, but the conversion to LH is achieved by simply removing one hand-tightened screw, flipping the palm rest around and replacing the screw. The rest of the stick is already ambidextrous.

I've been using mine for around 10 years with virtually no maintenance, but I'm with you on the returns issue. And eBay has them listed at $20-$30 for used? I think I paid around $20 for mine brand new a decade ago!

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Not that it matters, but the conversion to LH is achieved by simply removing one hand-tightened screw, flipping the palm rest around and replacing the screw. The rest of the stick is already ambidextrous.

Actually thanks for that, you've given me an idea.

Perhaps I can try the same thing on the X52 (or at least have a look to see how hard such a field modification might be). :)

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You could always "borrow" a "Spare" set of handles from the ADF!!:diable:

How are you at electronics?. I could always print you a new handle for the x52. Then all you would need to do is move the electronics over. In fact I think I even have an old x52 here to get measurements from.

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You could always "borrow" a "Spare" set of handles from the ADF!!:diable:

How are you at electronics?. I could always print you a new handle for the x52. Then all you would need to do is move the electronics over. In fact I think I even have an old x52 here to get measurements from.

I happen to have a "few" already.

However they are no good to me as I need a different handle for each different role (want to be a crew commander, disconnect the gunner's handle and plug in the commander's one, etc.).

They are purpose built to be good at the one job they do and whilst in the classroom I can have a computer + handle set up for various positions, the utility of the joy stick is that it lets you jump from position to position with a "generic" controller that does a reasonable job at all positions.

I don't have a X52 but a X52 Pro. I don't know the layout of the X52 but the X52 Pro has moulded grips for either side of the joystick and its not just a simple case of unbolt and switch sides. In addition the palm rest currently connected to the right hand side is built into the hand guard at the front so it can't just be flipped over and screwed into the left hand side.

As I've used a mouse for most for 95% of my time for the last 9 years or so I'm not too worried about a joystick (esp. as I need to use the product at my desktop, a laptop on the road, other machines in classrooms, ... and don't really want to put another gizmo in my luggage).

But if the T.16000m is any good (and can be returned if it isn't) then I might splash out on a simple replacement.

I suspect its purchase price of say A$60 would go no where near covering your time, materials, shipping, my time fitting them and then trying to get them to work. AND I still be stuck with a redundant throttle unit taking up acreage on my desk. :)

Thanks for the offer though. :)

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Well time and materials is about nil cost. I have 2kg of Black ABS and they are less than $60 per KG. Probably only talking about a couple of 100g to print a handle piece. Mine was/is a x52 pro too so I know the layout. Of course if you converted it to left hand you could stick the throttle out of the way under the desk.

If you were worried about the cost I could swap you for one of those spare handles :angel:.

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Well time and materials is about nil cost. I have 2kg of Black ABS and they are less than $60 per KG. Probably only talking about a couple of 100g to print a handle piece. Mine was/is a x52 pro too so I know the layout. Of course if you converted it to left hand you could stick the throttle out of the way under the desk.

But I don't need the whole joystick replicated (which I guess is what the black ABS would be used for).

All I need is to somehow swap the moulded (non ABS) portion that currently supports the thumb on the left hand side of the stick so that it does so on the right and replicate the plain (again non ABS) right hand side so it fits on the left.

The two pieces are indicated by arrows below:

8309292883_d57c3b7d90_z.jpg

The base, buttons, etc. are all fine (as I said I've used it maybe for 30mins in 18 months).

If you were worried about the cost I could swap you for one of those spare handles :angel:.

They aren't "spare" as in "free" - I signed for them. :)

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Yes I know the layout. Its what I was using till one of the pots got noisy. I was going to just replace the pot but decided to get a Hotas warthog instead as it doesn't use pots.

The pieces you are indicating is what i was suggesting i could make. I think they are ABS or some other plastic base with a rubber surface molded on. You would need to have access to a soldering iron and knowledge of soldering. There are 1 or 2 buttons which would have to swap sides. Under the buttons is a microswitch which would need to be removed and then soldered back on in a new configuration (unless there is enough slack in the loom to allow their position to change). I have a sneaking suspicion that the wife may have thrown my old X52 away so you might also need a set of calipers to give me accurate sizes. But it terms of work my end its very little:- Get the dimensions, knock up a quick model in a CAD package, send to printer, wait 2+ hours.

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I've been using a Thrustmaster T.16000m for about three months now, and have no real issues with it, the only possible problem, is that sometimes when jumping back into the Commander/Gunners position from the Map view it's almost like it needs to wake up and takes a second or two before it's recognised, doesn't happen all the time, and personally I don't find it an issue,

Overall I'm very happy with it, especially for the price.

Edited by Crusty
spelling.

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There are 1 or 2 buttons which would have to swap sides.

Um why?

All I need is to traverse, elevate, depress and fire.

AFAIK I don't need the hat and plethora of other buttons that seem to clutter this thing. So if I can't reach them once those pads are swapped, too bad.

I don't think there are any buttons actually connected to the two bits I want to swap?

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Overall I'm very happy with it, especially for the price.

Thanks for the mini review. :)

All I need to do is find a shop to look at it since the vast majority of online places so far will only do returns if is "broken" (i.e. warranty) not because the left handed setup is no good or if it wont work on my machine.

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